November 22-24 -il treno a Milano

This morning we closed up our apartment and headed for the train station at 7:30. The train did not leave until 8:30, but we wanted to leave enough time so that no running would be required. The slow train went from Lucca to Firenze (Florence) where we changed to Eurostar, the ast teain,which would get us to Milano by noon. The Eurostar has a monitor so that you can see just how fast (peak was 230 km/hr) the train is going and duration to destination. The train was pretty full with business people and in our train there were two women who were on their cells the entire time. I sprung for wifi so that i could get more of this blog written... Jeeze, i miss my cell phone.

I was hoping to meet my cousin Elena that lives in Milan... But she is in Solofra and has not returned Carol's emails. Milan is not somewhere super high on my list to visit as it is so commercial and fashion focused, but i want to see the fantatic Duomo.

I have now been in Italy for over 2 weeks, and have not really used my Italian as much as i was hoping. Valeria and I agreed to talk by Skype each week so that she can help each other. She would make a good teacher.

After arriving by train at the Milan Central Station, Carol and I went in search of the Metro that would deliver us to the Duomo. The Park Hyatt, where I am using frequent-stayer-points for 2 nights, is supposed to be next door to the Duomo. After asking a few people where things were, we found the Metro and Carol got us tickets. Now our task was to conquer the stairs up and down. As we waited for the subway, I noticed two young women dressed similar to me sort of hanging out. When the train pulled in, one promptly rushed in and stood blocking the door. Carol had managed to rush past her, but I was not so lucky. I kept trying to pushed her in, but she would not budge. Finally I had to yell at her as I realized that she was trying to unzip my purse. Since this is not the first time someone has tried, I yelled and she jumped off the train. Unfortunately I could not see if her companion had managed to get into my backpack, and since Carol was 6 people from me, I had to wait until we reached the Duomo to determine if I still had my ipad. Loosing two Apple devices on one trip would catostrophic.

After reaching the Duomo, we had to then find the Hotel. If I had been traveling alone, i would have taken a cab from the station to the hotel, but the Metro was convenient. After surfacing from the metro stop, we had no idea of which direction.... So we asked the first Cabinieri...which turned out to be 4 guys. They had no idea about the hotel and said (we need more information). When I dug out the iPad so I could get the address... They had no idea even about the street. So off we go following navigator Carol's interpretation of the map I had also dug out. After going about 1 block we got out the map again, and realized it was turned around.... So we headed back to the Duomo and the Galleria. Stopping to ask a worker who was working on the floor tiles, he pointed us to the hotel, which would have bitten us if we were not looking.

When I checked into the hotel the desk manager first told me that my points would not allow a room with 2 beds. After 2 weeks with my cousin, there was no way I was going to sleep with her, even if it was just for 1 night. So I insisted that I had called to confirm "una stanza con due letti" after punching in his computer a awhile, he said he would see if he could get me an "upgrade" ... With some additional keystrokes, he said a 2 bed room was available, but not ready yet. We would have to wait an hour..... So the concierge took our bags.... But a few more keystrokes later, the room was available, but there was a light that required fixing. I told him that we were going to drop off our bags and then leave, so they could fix the light.

We were hungry, but I wanted to see the Duomo since I would have limited time in Milan... And the line was not long, so without a tour book to know what I was looking at, we went to the Duomo..... Incredible does not do it justice. We wandered for about an hour inside. Carol was getting jumpy for lunch, and had asked the concierge for a suggestion, so we started a trek to Brea. I turned out to be further than we anticipated, and when we go there at about 2:30 some places were empty. Being rather pickynabout where she eats, we finally found a place. Since i was using points for the hotel, Carol volunteered to buy the lunch. She had salad and a pasta. I had parmesan rice, and polpette and potato. It was probably the worst lunch of the trip. Carol wanted to come back to the room while I wanted to see the castle, so we separated.

Along the way i came across this statue in front of a church
Inset i formation about castle
Noticing an arch behind the castle, i headed in that direction. It is the Peace arch
From the time. Left the restaurant, i noticed this tall guy carrying a cannon rebel that was touring. As i came back through the garden we stopped to chat and walk together. He was from Vienna and traveling on business, but spending the day to see the sights.
From here I walked to Via Dante to look in the shops, and have a gelatto before heading back to the Duomo and the Galleria.
When I got back to the room, Carol was in a tizzy as the lights in the room would not stay on and the repair workman was spending alot of time trying to fix. She was frustrated so the front desk had come up and shown her another room, which was smaller so she didnt want to take it. They had asked her what they could do to make up for the inconvenience, but she didnt want to accept anything....when I got back I said that she was the one inconvenienced, so she should have whatever she wants. Gelato was the answer.
I returned to the room tired and ready for a telecon... But of course Carol had to call her mother, Joseph, and Lindo... So I went into the bathroom for my call. After my call I went out to take nite photos of the Duomo and get a Diet Coke and roll for the morning breakfast. When I got back around 9 Carol was in bed - she planned to get up at 5:30 to go to the airport for a 9am flight. I did some work and then to bed so that I could explore in the AM.

Wednesday Nov 23-

Carol left as planned around 5:30... So I slept until 7:30. After walking around the Duomo for a bit. Which didnt open intil 8:30, I headed off on foot to the Chiesa St Maria delle Grazie where the last supper is located. I decided that a map was not necessary, but was wrong. After heading in opposite directions based on asking people, I was fearful that my italian was really not as good as I thought... But then realized that the people of Milan do not know their city. In the 2 days in Milan, I must have asked directions of 12 people and only 2 knew where famous tourist sights were (the Chiesa and Pecks, as the hotel is not famous).

When I found the Chiesa, I went into the ticket office to find out that there were no tickets available today.... Bummer. I should have asked the hotel to get me in, but I figured it was November and no problem. However when I got there, 2 bus loads ok kids were entering, explaining why they were full. I went into the church, but due to construction you couldn't really see much.. So back to the Duomo, where. Walked around for a while and decided to do the hop-on-hop-off bus so I could get around to the sights. Skipping lunch today, as would normally, I went on both the red and blue line. I stopped in the shopping area and bought a beautiful cashmere sweater. Next door was the famous Gelato Gom, so I had to have two scoops. Nothing special, but their stratachella was good. From here I took a cab to Pecks, the food store that is supposed to have all of Italy's best. If that's is true, then they put their name on it...as it looked like a snooty place. Since my suitcase is already overloaded, it didn't buy anything. From here I walked to the Duomo to take the elevator to the top to see the view. When will I learn .... $10e later, my fear of heights let me go part way... Not not the whole enchilada. I did take a few pictures, but not of a spectacular view of the city.

I had noticed an interesting art museum nearby, so I visited and debated having a late lunch there... But it was pretty snooty...so I ventured into a bookstore next door and bought several books in italian. Realizing it was quickly approaching 4pm, I went back to the hotel to drop off the books and by big camera, walked up Via Dante to catch the last red bus around.

After seeing all of the sights that I could see, I figured that dinner was warranted, so into the Galleria. My last dinner in Milan would be the Milanese Saffron Rice, Salad, and Pizza. Despite no lunch, I could only eat half of the rice and pizza. I headed over to Chocola-taly. And debated another gelato... But decided against, but would love one of their tee shirts.

It was now 8pm, I would have a 3 AM wakeup for my 6:20 AM departure... And an hour drive to the airport....it took me about an hour to pack and unpack all the stuff... But that was in hand and by 11 PM I was asleep.

3 AM came very early....but I was up and down at the front desk by 3:30... And in a cab that cost me $120e. Got to airport at 4:45, checked bags at Lufthansa, and nothing was open at 5:10 ..... But flights were on time and now I sit in Frankfurt waiting for my 10 hr flight.

November 21 Monday - Prato and Ponte Buggianese

Monday - November 21st:  Today is our last full day in Lucca and with our family from Naples.  I have really been looking forward to riding the trains in Italy, so today we decided to take the 10:30 train to Prato and be picked up there. Unfortunately, I decided that since I had not walked out through one of the wall-exits that this morning was the day to try that route, and unfortunately it took longer, and as I was late returning from my early morning walk, I made us late for the train... but Carol ran ahead since my bad knees dont allow me to run any faster than walking, and got in line for the tickets. We made it with plenty of time to spare, but the lines at the Lucca train station are not very fast. Everyone has to chat with the ticket seller. Once you get your ticket you then have to find the Binario and go down steps to get under the tracks, and then up stairs to the correct Binario. Fortunately, the train was also a few minutes late, so we arrived in Prato later than expected, but of course our cousins were there waiting for us. This time, Carol showed me how to stamp the ticket on the yellow machine -- I will add a picture later when I can download it from that camera.  On this trip, the conductor was coming through checking tickets.... so I was glad we had stamped the tickets as landing in trouble in Italy is not high on my list.

Fulvio and Valeria's apartments are in Prato. Michelangelo explained that Prato has a large immigrant population (particularly from China) because its economy is based largely on textiles. Prato is also the second largest city in Tuscany after Florence... and the train station was quite a bit bigger than Lucca.

The first stop was the Emperor's Castle, also known as Fortress of S.Barbara or Castello Svevo, is considered important Prato architecture from the 11th and 13th century. I found the ramparts to be particularly intersting as they were not squared like so many castles.  It was the headquarters of the Imperial party in the Florentine countryside, seat of the Imperial Viceroy of Tuscany.  The castle's construction begun in 1237 and ended in 1248 by order of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II.

Michelangelo took us to Prato centro, and we saw the exterior of the fort above which was closed, and visited a church next door -- Saint Maria Delle Carceri (a church for the prisoners that were kept in the fort). Santa Maria delle Carceri, commissioned by Lorenzo de' Medici to Giuliano da Sangallo in 1484. It is on a Greek cross plan, inspired by Brunelleschi's Pazzi Chapel. Works lasted for some twenty years.

The interior has a bichromatic maiolica frieze by Luca della Robbia, also author of four tondo depicting the four Evangelists in the cupola. The external façade is unfinished, only the western part being completed in the 19th century according to Sangallo's design. Some kind of service was being conducted in the church.

Next we headed off into more of a central location of Prato, to the Duomo - I am always fascinated by the exterior pulpits.

In the square was the Basilica Cattedrale Di Sano Stefano - which houses Il Cacro Cingolo. This is the main Catholic church of Prato. It is dedicated to St. Stephen, the first Christian martyr. It is one of the most ancient churches in the city, existing already in the 10th century and having been built and in several successive stages in the Romanesque style. During the 14th century, the Cathedral acquired an important relic, the Sacra Cintola or Belt of the Holy Virgin. This brought about the enlarging of the edifice by the addition of a transept which is attributed to Giovanni Pisano, but probably the work of a pupil of Nicola Pisano. The Cintola Chapel was also built at this time to house the relic.  Another important feature  was constructed in the early 15th century, a new façade was added in the International Gothic, in front of the old one. In the space between the two was created a corridor leading to the external pulpit, built by Michelozzo and decorated by Donatello between 1428 and 1438.

At the Basilica, a tribute to Maria was being conducted by the military. I asked this cute guy if I could take his picture and he was very happy to pose for me.

From here we walked around the center of Prato which is filled with stores and other fascinating places. Carol sprung for hot chocolate for everyone -- my first Italian hot chocolate. It is much thicker than american hot chocolate. .

I wanted to punch this waiter, as he was very rude -- Carol spent about $50 on hot chocolate yet this waiter was very disturbed that we were messing up his dining area. THere were siz of us, so we took a 4 person table and added 2 chairs.  The waiter insisted that we move one of the chairs we borrowed back to its place (no one could possibily get to that location around us.... but that table was missing a chair, so it had to be replaced).  Most of us american's tip waiters... but this guy got niente. I had further iphone withdrawl as i watched Michelangelo work his phone.

We then went over to Fulvio's apartment. For a first home, this is very nice and much larger than most peoples first home.  As an investment -- looks great to me. Two bedrooms, a kitchen, living room, kitchen and very long terrace.   Valeria's apartment is in the building next door, but is being rented out so we could not see it.  The building is one that Michelangelo's company built.

Next was back to Villa Vigilante in Ponte Buggianese, where Mirella had cooked up another fantastic lunch. We started with pasta and then she had made three types of pizza. Wow. She really should open a restaurant, as everything was fanstastic.... but retired life means she should be enjoying the Tuscan/Napoli life and not cooking for so many American guests. However, we really appreciated their hospitality.

Michelangelo has four kiwi trees that were full of fruit, so we picked the trees clean and had a huge amount of kiwi that Mirella will make marmalade and other great concoctions, as well as share with her sibilings in Naples.

Since Carol and I go to Milan tomorrow, we decided that it needed to be an early evening... with such regrets we had to leave our family.  They go so such great efforts to make us so comfortable when we come to Italy. I hope at some time they will consider a visit to the US.  As a surprise on our return to Lucca, Mirella had Fulvio drive us to Montecatini Terme for some locally special cookies - Brigidini... and they she made sure that Carol and I both left with a huge box of the cookies. According to legend, the origin of the Lamporecchio brigidini dates back to 1300 when a Swedish nun began a long pilgrimage and stopped off in the Montalbano area, in the heart of Tuscany. Here she founded the homonymous convent of the Brigidine order, where she began to produce a delicacy called ‘Brigidino’ made by using special engraved plates that formed the shape of a consecrated Host. Its ingredients are very simple: flour, sugar, eggs and anise seeds. The recipe is handed down from one generation to another by skilful local craftsmen.

So back to our apartment to clean up and get ready for the 4 hour train trek to Milan tomorrow.

November 20 Sunday - Day with Family in Ponte Buggianese

Sunday November 20 - the Sunday antique fair continues in Lucca today, so the streets were packed with people.

With a late night return from dinner with family, we did not plan to meet everyone until afternoon. Michelangelo's house in Ponte Buggianese is about 20 minutes from Lucca. Annunziata, Carol, and I met at the train station just outside of the walls so that Michelangelo and Mirella could not have to wait on us.

They had gone grocery shopping for what turned out to be our pranzo (lunch) today.   Michelangelo took us back to their family home in Ponte Buggianese. It is a wonderful new home on what was Dina's (Michelangelo and Annunziata's mother's) family property. 

If I remember the story correctly. Dina became a nanny for a very rich family from this area that had a winter home in Naples.  Dina's family home was in Ponte Buggianese. The cook for this family was the sister of Rocco (my grandfather's cousin).  When the family was in Naples, the cook wanted to introduce her to Rocco.  However, after the romance started Rocco went to North Africa to work.  When he returned they married and Rocco established a clothes cleaning place in Santa Lucia part of Naples.

Michelangelo has purchased apartments for Fulvio and Valeria in nearby Prato.

We had a wonderful pasta dinner followed by antipasta and salad and then dolce. Michelangelo has a kiwi tree over the car port and whereas in Seattle we place the ripening kiwi in an egg carton for a few weeks, they place apples near them an that ripens them.

After dinner, we played cards. Fulvio taught Carol and I an Italian game called Burraco. You play in pairs, and the idea is to get either a run or 3 of a kind, and building to 7 (a run or of a kind) -- a Burraco occurs when seven are reached. The Joker and 2s are wild. During our first game, two ladies (Vivian and Laura) arrived that are cousins from his mother's side. They were very funny, friendly, and joined into our game (Vivian being my partner for a couple of games until they had to leave.

Of course Mirella and Carol won. 

Again the food came out, adn we had a "buffet" meal.  By 9:30 we were stuffed and it was time for Carol. me, and Annunziata go to back to Lucca.... but Michelangelo had to drive us. 

Tomorrow we take the train to Prato to see Fulvio's apartment and that city.  Oggi era un buon giorno.\

November 19 - A new look for Lucca

Saturday November 19 -- Yesterday I set an appointment to get my hair cut at Sagar for 9am this morning.  I thought it would be an interesting experience, and it sure was.  After exiting the apartment, it turns out there is a HUGE antique fair in Lucca, which we thought was tomorrow. As I was walking over to the hair salon, the vendors were setting up their booths.

Well going to get your hair cut in another country is an experience and one I wanted to try.  When I arrived, they were just opening, so they ushered me into a room to put on a smock.  their smocks were sort of like paper, whereas at Belli Capelli, they are cloth.  I had to wait until exactly 9am where a young girl with a very funky hair cut, washed and conditioned my hair.  The basins are much different from what I have seen in the US -- you basically sit up staight and then bend your neck into what looks like a bed pan (sounds bad but was not).  The water force here is very light as it is the ancient plumbing, but they give you a great massage as they wash.  Then a separate young girl came over and combed out my hair and applied the conditioner.  They then walked me over to a chair, where another woman came and combed out  my hair. Finally Adriano, one of the two male owners came over to cut my hair.  While I was facing a mirror his cutting was out of view... and was much different from how it is done in the US... it looked like he as clipping and clipping... and while I only wanted 1/2 inch taken... there was more, maybe an inch. It is a bit feathered instead of an even cut, which will be interesting to see how it works in Seattle.  After he finished, another different girl came over and blow dried my hair - something I normally do in about 3 minutes, took her a good 20 minutes, as if she was drying each and every strand.  In the end, it looks acceptable so now I can say I have the experience of an Italian hair cut for the mere price of $47e - much cheaper than I would pay in Seattle.  Adriano spoke english, and instead of trying to explain what I wanted done, I had to explain in English -- for fear of asking for a mohawk... but then revered back to Italian - for which he complimented me (at least for trying).  I watched him jabber away at another lady as he cut her hair and her head was bobbing all over the place... but in the end, she had a very modern hair cut.  Me, just the same, but shorter.  Hey -- hair grows, so even if I dont like it in a few days, it will grow out.  Sorry no pix of me.

Now we are off the explore the antique fair that seems to have covered each and every corner of Lucca today. The travel books said that this was held on Sunday, but to our surprise, virtually every square in the SW part of the city is covered with antiques.  Carol and I strolled around for an hour or so.  Carol buying a few items, and me buying a mongolian egg made of bone.  I antiques here are really amazing but way to costly to ship to the US .... so I can only dream about furnishing my villa.

We met my cousin Michelangelo and his son at the train station. From there we went to Annunziata's house to chat for a while where rest of the family waited. They are such fun people that is was so nice to see Michelangelo, Mirella, Fulvio, Valeria, Sara, and Annunziata. We had coffee/tea/hot chocolate and got caught up on what was happening in everyone's lives. Michelangelo has a summer home that is near Prato where we will go to visit tomorrow.

Annunziata and Fulvio looking at small apples that grow at Annunziata's house.

For tonight Fulvio made reservations at a restaurtant near their summer home. Off we went on the Autostrada to a fantastic restaurant near Ponte Bugganese (between Lucca and Florence) that used to be a place where cows were weighed, now turned into a restaurant. Fulvio ordered virtually every one of their appetizers for sample ranging from plenta, a wine soaked nut bread, pickled olives/carots, you name it, we tried it. Then local beer and wine was ordered before our main course. The dish I had was fantastic a local tuscan tortellini. As a followup Michelangelo ordered some lemon gelato for everyone to share.

November 16-18: More exploration of Lucca & an unexpected find

Wednesday November 16 - today was a day of exploring the northwest side of Lucca inside the walls. We started by walking to the Cathedral of St Martino, which was not open. So we proceeded to go to the street market on the western part of the town next to the wall.

There were many merchants selling food but primarly clothes. I found an Italian hair item for a gift. The streets were very crowded and we watched a lady chase a boy, and force him to wear a hat, and then the boy cried.... we were not sure if he was being abused or if he was being just a kid and misbehaving. 

We walked around for quite a while seeking the few sights on the northwest, but there is really not much in that sector, but for me there were plenty of doors to photograph, and faces of the Italian dogs (my theme for this trip). We stumbled into a mercato that was ending- see the picture of the blue graffiti, as that was the entrance. Unfortunately, the fruit and vegetable market would have to wait for another day, as they were closing down and not much to see.

 

It was then lunch time, so we tried several places and I was really getting tired as it was about 2pm.. So we went in search of a restaurant.  Surprizingly Carol is a much pickier eater than I am... usually I can find something on a menu that I will eat... so after testing Cafe Gigi, a wine bar, and several restaurants, we stopped here at Restorante Da Francesco.

I had rigatoni/meat sauce, a salad and we split a Caprese salad. We then came back to the apartment as I had a couple of hours of work to complete. Carol decided to walk and go in search of Annunziata's house, since she had invited us for dinner tonight.  Annunziata lives outside the wall, and I had a conference call that was scheduled to occur 30 minutes before were were supposed to be there. Finding internet places has not been so easy. In Italy, you have to show ID/passport to use the internet -- some strange country law designed to reduce terrorism, if the tralvel web sites are correct. Carol was very nice to find an internet place (A Western Union office) near Annunziata's house. 

I left the apartment at about 5:30 to go to the Western Union place -- Carol gave lousy directions, but after stopping several people, I got pointed in the right direction. The Western Union place told Carol (and me when I entered) that have Skype.... but it didnt work.  Three computers later, I was a bit frazzled.  Adjacent to the first computer, a woman talking on Skype, with her husband sitting behind her, taking part of my space.... I shufflfed a bit and asked him to move.  My Skype account has about $30 in credits for calls, so I was trying to protect it from his snooping eyes, as he didnt seem to be paying much attention to his wife. After three computers, I decided that it was time to just use a regular old phone, which Western Union had several booths. My telcon ran very long, so after 20 minutes on the call, and being 10 minutes from Annunziata's house I had to hang up.  This had to be about the gazillionth time since my first day in Catania I missed my Iphone.

The walk from the Western Union office was not 10 minutes but rather closer to 20 at my slow pace. When we got to 708 Via Vincenzo Consani and the house was dark. I thought for sure that Carol had not found the right place. I didnt see anything around that looked like a house and it was dark and cold. We walked to what looked like the house behind another house, and it was also dark, but Carol rang a bell... and it turned out to be the right place.

Annunziata has a great house - 2 bedroom, studio, bathroom, dining room, kitchen, and laundry room. The house was freezing cold. But I was in heaven -- she has 2 cats: an orange tabby/longhair and a sort of siamese. Another cat person in the Vigilante family -- a family that is not big on pets.  She has just arrived home before we got there, so we were afraid that we were disrupting her schedule.  Annunziata cooked us dinner - a chicken fillets, breaded olives with meat inside (wow were these great), salad, bread, and a potato/artichoke salad. Carol is not one to eat this type of food.... but she tried just about everything. Annunziata speaks very littke English, so Carol really carried to conversation tonight as I just could not seem to form sentences. We talked about all of the family visits to Italy - our aunts/uncles as well as our cousins.  Annunziata had several stories about the visits of the aunts and uncles.  I had only met Annunziata once in about 2005 over a dinner before I flew from Naples to Venice, so it was really fantastic to get to spend time with her.

We left her house around 9pm and it was very cold walking back -- Annunziata lives outside the walls, south of the train station.  I forgot to pull out my camera so no pictures.

I had some work to do, but the files had not arrived.... so I went to bed around 11pm.

Thursday Novembe 17. - this morning I stayed in bed until around 7:30 but got about 3 hours of sleep. We left the apartment around 9:30 so that we could see a few more places before the afternoon closures. We started with Cathedral St Martino, but it was not open yet... so we walked up to St Fredino to see the inside, and found that there was a gregorian chant there this evening, so we rearranged our ill-defined schedules and planned to attend.

I wanted to do some shopping, since Carol seems not be a shopper -- but neither am I, I was tired churches.... so we separated so that could be done before meeting at the apartment at 1pm. I found a number of gifts but also bought myself a forintinian purse. I also took a few more pictures along the way. On my way back to the apartment, I stopped and went through the cathedral.

The Cathedral of St Martino was begun in 1063. Of the original structure, the great apse with tall columnar arcades and the fine campanile remain. The nave and transepts of the cathedral were rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th century, while the west front was begun in 1204 by Guido Bigarelli of Como, and consists of a vast portico of three magnificent arches, and above them three ranges of open galleries adorned with sculptures. In the nave a small octagonal temple or chapel shrine contains the most precious relic in Lucca, the Volto Santo di Lucca or Sacred Countenance. This cedar-wood crucifix and image of Christ, according to the legend, was carved by his contemporary Nicodemus, and miraculously conveyed to Lucca in 782. The chapel was built in 1484 by Matteo Civitali, the most famous Luccan sculptor of the early Renaissance. The tomb of Ilaria del Carretto by Jacopo della Quercia of Siena, the earliest of his extant works was commissioned by her husband, the lord of Lucca, Paolo Guinigi, in 1406. 

 There is a legend to explain why all the columns of the façade are different. According to the tale, when they were going to decorate it, the inhabitants of Lucca announced a contest for the best column. Every artist made a column, but then the inhabitants of Lucca decided to take them all, without paying the artists and used all the columns.  I was told that this labyrinth was supposed to be by the Pelegrini family... but none of the other columns have any distinguishable carvings.

For lunch we went to Antica Osteria, a nicer restaurant - where we shared Pidgeon rice (yes, Carol conviced me to try it... and the rice was good, but the meat tasted like what I would think a flying rat would taste) and then I had fried chicken. So far this was the least stellar of our restaurant choices and I did not like either of my dishes, but the wine was good.     What would lunch be without a gelato....  so a gelato later, we were back at the apartment. I did some work while Carol walked the wall. 

At 5:30 we walked back to Basilica St. Fredino, where the gregorian chant was to be held. Tonight as we walked, the evening passigata had started. The picture above looks rather empty on the street (Via Filungo) but it was very crowded.

 We got to the church a few minutes before the service but the place was pretty empty. A few minutes later, several nuns came in and the service began. The service was conducted in latin and italian.

The Basilica of San Frediano is a Romanesque church located on the Piazza San Frediano. Fridianus (Frediano) was an Irish bishop of Lucca in the first half of the 6th century. The church acquired its present appearance of a typical Roman basilica during the period 1112-1147. In the 13th-14th centuries the striking façade was decorated with a huge golden 13th century mosaic representing The Ascension of Christ the Saviour with the apostles below. When you look up at this facade, you can see how the facade curves up to the roofline -- my picture just doesnt capture it.

Berlinghiero Berlinghieri designed it in a Byzantine/medieval style. Inside, the basilica is built in richly carved white marble. It consists of a nave and two aisles with arches supported by columns with Roman and Romanesque capitals. The Roman capitals, as well as other parts of the basilica were recycled from the nearby Roman amphitheatre. The highlight at the entrance is the huge 12th century Romanesque baptismal font (the Fonte Lustrale). It is composed of a bowl, covered with a tempietto, resting on pillars, inside a circular basin. The counterfaçade houses the 16th century organ in the exquisitely carved. gold-plated choir from the 17th century. On the right hand is the side chapel of St. Zita (1218-1278), a popular saint in Lucca. Her intact mummified body, lying on a bed of brocade, is on display in a glass shrine.

Christmas lights had been strung along Via Filung, but so far the lights have not been turned on and a worker indicated that it might not be turned on until December 1st.

We came back to the apartment and Carol has been glued to her computer and chuckeling as she writes her traveloge. I worked for a few hours. I also watched the movie Bad Bosses which I had downloaded to my Ipad.... so I was giggling as I worked on the Blog.

Friday November 18, 2011: I got a late start this morning, as I did not get to sleep until around 3am.  After oing some laundry, we went for a stroll.  I am now focused on improving the quality of the pictures I have taken an trying to see anything new that I have not already seen.  I was hopin to go to an Opera today (Puccini of course), but they start at 8pm and I have a 7:30 telecon.... so maybe when I get to Milan, I will go to La Scala to see an opera.

After walking a bit, Carol and I had lunch in the Anfiteatro - in an outdoor restaurant as the day was sunny and geting warm. It was a tourist trap, so the food was mediocre, tho' after speaking to two american couples at a nearby table, we helped them figure out what they were going to do with their short 1 day in Lucca. Carol volunteered to be their guide for the day, but they did not take her up on it. These two guys played while we ate.
 

We decided to split up and walk separately. Carol sez that she ran the wall and walked around. Me, well I strolled the city. In St Michele square they were bringing in several large and old olive trees and a lemon tree -- a many who I asked what was going on, said they are for Christmas.

After a short walk on the wall, I came across a turkey type duck.

Found another villa, where two young boys were playing with an air gun and I scared them silly as I acted as if they had shot me. I fell on the ground and didn not move for at least a full minute.  One kid ran our of the courtyard and the other just stood there staring at me. When I finally go up, he ran off. 

After spending my aftenoon walking, it was time to return to the apartment to do some work. Had telecons at 7pm and 10:30. So inbetween the calls, since Carol does not eat dinner, I ventured out in search of entertainment and food - walking around the city in search of a pizza and wine. At 8pm, there was not much open in our sector of Lucca, but I came across this restaurant Restaurant del Teatro who made me a nice pizza. Their wine was good Il Selvatico with a deer's head on the label.

Something that some of the restaurants do here is to give you a fresh bottle of wine, and then mark on its side how much you can drink (ie, if you buy a half bottle about - $6, they mark the bottle at the half point). So far, I have always gotten a full bottle to start -- guess they are hoping I will drink the whole thing.  During dinner I watched two american women and one of their husbands talk about their trip.  We chatted a bit, as they had just arrived from Nice, are from Victoria BC, and were planning to go to the Opera (La Boheme).  The husband the the chef sang opera for a while in the restaurant.

Michelangelo, my Naples cousin, and family arrives tomorrow for the weekend.

November 14 & 15 -- Lucca Exploration

November 14th -- Monday: Today we stayed in Lucca to see the sights and make sure we visited all of the dozens of churches located in the wall. After breakfast we ran some errands to get bleach to get rid of the smell in the washing machine, get bread (Carol) and replaced the eaten cookies (me - tho' Carol does a good job munching on anything that sits on our common table). While we were coming out of the Via where Carol's favorate Pasticceria is located - who did Carol spot but our cousin Annunziata who lives in Lucca. We were planning to call her this evening to schedule a lunch or dinner.  Annunziata is my second cousin, the daughter of Rocco (my father's cousin).   I called out her name, but she didnt respond, so Carol chased after her and it sure was her. She was walking out of a place with a friend. We chatted briefly, and after Carol invited her to a meal, she invited us to her home for dinner on Wednesday.  We returned to our apartment to drop off all of the stuff we purchased and were so pleased at finding our cousin so unexpectedly.  We then start of exploring the City.

I suggested to Carol that we explore the city in quadrants -- starting with the NW quadrant. Unfortunately, since it was Monday, many places were not open. We started with San Frediano church which has a beautiful mosaic front. It was not open.

We stopped quickly into the Antitheatro, even tho' it was not in the quadrant.   I think the Antitheatro and the walls of the buildings that form this oval, were what attrached me to finding an apartment here. Plus the streets are not a steep hill town so they are easy to traverse.
Next we went to the Pfanner Plazzo which we thought might be closed (based on the travel books). We paid to enter and see the full plazzo and the gardens which were great.  We were able to see the 1st floor (2nd US floor) which had a kitchen, ballroom, study, bedroom, an a room where medical instruments were on display.  One of the Pfanners' was a psychiatrist.  From the gardens you can look up and see people walking on the city wall -- I waved at a guy, who wondered who those crazy people were sitting at a table in the garden.   The garden has diverse plants, many lemon trees, and roses.

The house was believed to be designed by a Genoese architect for the Moriconi family, a merchant family of Lucca who traded in silk and wanted to show off their wealth with a sumptuous palace inside the city walls. In 1680 the house passed into the ownership of the Contronis, another merchant family. It was in this phase, in 1686, that a number of changes were made, including the addition of the outside staircase. The house took the name of the Pfanner family in 1800, when it was acquired by the Austrian brewer whom Charles Louis Bourbon had invited to Lucca in 1846 to direct the brewing of beer in the town, with a brewery that was operative until 1929.

The house is still owned by the Pfanner family and has been open to the public since the 1990s. Inside is the hall, frescoed in the 18th century, and a collection of surgical instruments which belonged to a member of the Pfanner family, a physician. A charming part of the house is the Italian-style garden, created in 1700. A series of exotic and Mediterranean plants, lawns, pools, statues of the four elements and the four seasons, a Roman sarcophagus, pines, fruit trees and magnolias follow one other in a carefully designed arrangement, bounded by a hedge surrounding the entire garden. 

Carol then wanted to visit the heart of Sister Zita -- which is a midevil times sort of abused woman's shelter. 

St Zita (not Carol) was born in the early 13th century to a poor but religious family in a village near Lucca. At twelve Zita was sent to Lucca to work as a servant in the house of a rich weaver. The Fatinelli house was next to the church of St. Frediano. Despite her dedication to her work, Zita was, for many years, taunted and disliked by her fellow servants for being affected and proud. Zita was promoted to the position or Housekeeper with the full confidence of her employers. Knowing that Zita gave away most of her meager belongings to the poor, Signor Fatinelli gave her permission to distribute some of his funds as alms, which she did with great discretion always keeping him informed. Word spread throughout Lucca about her visits to the sick, to those in Prison, her good deeds and her heavenly vision and she was sought out by made people, rich and poor alike. Her body is enshrined in St. Frediano's Church in Lucca next to the Fatinelli house where she lived and worked for 48 years. Her face and hands are exposed to view through a crystal glass.

Next we went to a chocolate shop that was rated highly on TripAdvisor (yum - we both bought candy, tho Carol did not like what she bought). Next we had lunch at a Trattatoria Rusticaneleoo -- it was packed and they sat us in not such a great place, When I asked if we could wait, they said ok, but Carol heard the woman mutter to her co-worker "americanata"... so we decided to take the table anyway. The lunch was fantastic. We split a pasta dish, and I had a dish called Polpetta con Lucessa Piselli (Meatballs with peas) which was wonderful. Carol had a soup that was not too warm. Wine was good. Next we visited the home of Giacomo Puccini.

Giacomo Antonio Domenico Michele Secondo Maria Puccini (get that for a name) was born December 22, 1858 and died November 29, 1924. He was an Italian composer, famous for La bohème, Tosca, Madama Butterfly, and Turandot, are among the most famous. In reading about Puccini, ML discovered that he never finished Turandot, for which several places in Lucca are named. Rather, Arturo Toscanini who conducted the opera after Puccini's death, or Franco Alfano competed the piece.

Next we visited the Church San Michele which has the angel with wings on top. I think this is the coolest church facade. 

Carol's guidebook sez that the church ran out of money so they never finished the upper part of the church -- see this picture where there are steps to the angel. Evidently in strong winds they reduce the spread of the wings.

Inside several ladies were busy making flyers for the church as Carol and I stolled around.

Carol's book also sez that the cross on the altar was painted by a person in the time of Jesus who actually met Jesus. Thus, the picture is believed to be a true image and maybe the only surviving true image.

Carol came back to the apartment to make her daily calls home, while I went to the bookstore and then got lost. Once finding my route back to the aparment, I set to work for several hours.  Around 8pm, I decided to have gelatto.... but nothing was open, so I worked until past midnight.

November 15 -- Today Carol decided to venture to Florence to see the Uffizi.... Having spent a week in Florence 2 years ago, I stayed in Lucca. I took a long shower, ran out for beakfast goodies, and then returned to do a quick load of laundry. After it was done, I decided to walk to the NW corner of the city and to see the Torre Guingi.

The 144 ft tall Torre Guinigi was and still is the most important tower in Lucca, and one of the very few examples left in the region. It was built for the Guinigi family who once ruled over Lucca and defended the city against the Medici of Florence, which helped Lucca retain its independence until the 18th century. The tower has become one of the city's most famous symbols, especially thanks to its rooftop garden and Oak trees that can be seen from all over the city. The Torre Guinigi is one of the two towers that can be climbed to get panoramic views of Lucca and the surrounding Apuane Alps. In the 15th century the tower was added to the Palazzo Guinigi, which was home of one of Lucca's most important families.

Since I chickened out after climbing to the metal stairs that lead to the top (yes, I was 2/3 of the way there and chickened out, as the stair went from being like a regular stairway to metal stairs hanging on the side of the wall with a view to below. I was able to go up the first set, that got you into the tower..... but from there my head started to spin. My fear of heights kicked in and I was not able to go further, and had to sit on the stairs and slide back down to the safer floor ...... embarassing .... a huge missed photo opportunity (me sliding back down but also the panaorama from the top).

So I then set in search of a photo of the tower from the street. The nice young man at the tower suggested a location near the ampitheater as well as from the wall.... so I walked to the northern entry to the wall, and then walked around the east side of the wall until I could get a view. As I approached the wall and old man that looked like my Dad asked if I was lost and he showed me where I was on the wall.... he seemed to need to talk to people. So I decided to greet each and every person that was walking along the wall. There were what seemed like hundreds of buon giorno's. Once I got to the south portal of the wall, it was 12:30 so I decided to go in search of lunch.

One of the restaurants recommended on TripAdvisor was "La Bottega Della Cose Buona" which took some finding. It was basically a deli with six tables well hidden in the back. The reviews said to not be swayed by the plastic plates on the table. When I got there the 60ish gray beard (think Santa) owner was there at the deli so I asked if I was early for lunch... with only a few words he ushered me to the back room where there were six very small tables with marble tops. Two italian men were having lunch. Again with few words he pointed to a table, and I sat.... waiting for about 10 minutes before he returned and I asked for a menu. He reached over and turned over the hand written menu that was next to my plate. Since he didnt take credit cards, and all I had in my pocket was $25e, I was a bit leary of the menu, but saw that he had a fixed prixe section -- a primo and secondo, vino, and water for $15e.... so I ordered two Lucesse dishes: Rigantoni Amatricia and Peposo di Manzo (beef stew) and proceeded to have a wonderful meal. The atmosphere was pretty short but the food wonderful. From there I overindulged again, and stopped at the shop sort of next door and had a gelato (best chocolate, stratachelli was not as good).

Short on euro's I walked back to the Piazza San Michele where there was a bank that I thought worked with Bank of America (meaning, few fees).... so I got some euros. Dropped by the two Pasticceria's that had good cookies but nothing looked like I had to eat it... so no purchases andd I headed back to the apartment.  Because construction was occuring on teh aparment next door which is being gutted, rest was not possible.... so I waited for Carol to return since we planned to have dinner together.  I got alot of work done in the interim. 

She returned around 7pm and I had a telecon at 8:30.... so we went to the restaurant around the corner from the apartment -- next to the theater. We were the only guests. I had pasta, and a salad. When we got back, Carol went to bed and I worked until past midnight.